If the crowds, or the five-euro entry fee, turn you off entering the cathedral then wander instead to the Archdeacon’s House, located more or less in the middle of the cathedral’s meandering complex.  Austere from the outside, step through the Renaissance portal (no-one seems to mind) and you can admire an adorable Andaluz-style patio with palm trees, a central fountain and basket arches. Before you leave, have a look at the casa’s letterbox; a delicate, carved work by modernista architect Dòmenech I Montaner. The swallow and the tortoise are said to be a euphemism for Spain’s snail-paced postal service, and many would say that things haven’t changed since it was installed in 1902. The building now holds the city’s archives, and you are welcome to do some research there (you’ll need some I.D.).