All the city’s top chefs are doing it, reclaiming the down-to-earth appeal of classic tapas after a decade of tricked up, molecular cookery hurrah we say. Carles Abellan, whose mushrooming empire includes the excellent parrilla (grill) venue Bravo 24, has led the way with Tapaç 24.

A homage to the neighbourhood tapas of old (albeit with 21^st- century prices) the locale features the sort of bright and garish graphic window imagery still found in bars in less design-conscious Spanish cities, whilst inside it’s all bustle, hustle and old school tapas such as patatas bravas, pescado frito and pimientos del padrón. Tapaç 24 is also great for breakfast, with omelettes, fried eggs and for the ultimate hangover cure, ‘smashed’ eggs with potatoes.