While gentrification and hipster trappings are encroaching as much on Barceloneta as any other of the city’s inner barris, it still retains enough local colour and hangouts to make it the real deal. Jai-Ca is one of Barceloneta’s most beloved tapas bars, situated well away from the tourist traps along the Passeig Joan de Borbón. Despite its Basque name, you’ll only find a few pintxos here, and instead loads of seafood and classic tapas dishes that seem more at home in Andalucia. Jai-Ca is open from early morning and throughout the day it certainly sees its fair share of neighbourhood eccentrics, but the best time to go is the evening, especially in warm weather as tables that are packed onto its cantonada (corner) terrace become the hottest seats in the hood. The best things to order are the fried pescaditos, grilled prawns, chocos and tigres—the house speciality (mussels served in their shell with béchamel sauce and topped with breadcrumbs). Wash them down with one the best-pulled cañas in town.